Para Santi: Interesante rewiew de un Patek Philippe - Annual Calender 5146J-001
Foro: TZ-UK
Forero: MartynJC
Patek Philippe - Annual Calender 5146J-001
Manufacture: Patek Philippe
Complication: Annual Calender
Ref: 5146J-001
Calibre: 315 S IRM QA LU
Purchase Date: April 2006
http://designmjc.com/media/picts/wat...ew10_small.jpg
First Impressions
When I sadly lost my mother to cancer in 2006, amongst other things she left me enough money to buy this superb watch.
Why did I choose the Annual Calender (rhetorical) - well, the main reason - I like it! It has a balanced face, excellent readability, amazing looking movement, not too big or too small, fits very comfortably, classic design, useful complications - especially as I head into the evening of my (own) life I can appreciate being reminded what month it is as well as what day and date. Having a PR indicator helps me know if it needs any manual winding - but when worn on wrist the slightest movement sends power via the solid gold counterweight replenishing the movement. And being a keen photographer / astronomer I actually find the moon-phase indicator useful - it will show if there will be ambient light available after the sun has set.
I find I can wear this watch with a suit or with jeans - a brown leather jacket or black tie - any occasion really. Any being unusual does not draw unwanted attention.
Lastly - being an annual calender complication I only have to set it once a year - at the end of Feb - for all other months the date is catered for by the mechanism no matter if its 30 or 31 days a month.
Vital Statistics
Caliber: 315 S IRM QA LU
Which means: 315 (movement ref) S (center seconds) IRM (power reserve) QA (annual calendar) LU (moonphase)
Thickness: 5.22 mm
Power reserve: 48h max
Balance-wheel: Gyromax
Jewels: 36
Vibrations per hour: 21'600
Number of parts: 355
21K Yellow Gold Central Rotor
Geneva Seal Hallmark
Cal. Diameter: 30.00 mm
Number of jewels: 36
Power reserve: min 38 max 48 hr
Case dimensions : Diameter: 39mm
Case back: Sapphire Crystal Display Back
Height: 11.20 mm
Width between lugs: 20
Dial
http://designmjc.com/media/picts/wat...ew_patek02.jpg
It has a creamy enamel dial with gold baton markers, gold hands and numerals at 12, 9, 3 - the moon-phase is a gold (applied I believe) disk - well a pair of disks and gold stars that show full / new moon each lunar month. The hands have applied luminosity as does the dial at each 12h mark. A gold sweep second hand completes this balanced layout - with the day, month, date, hours, minutes, seconds and lunar phase being shown at a glance.
It is all encased in 750 (18c) gold solid case - which makes the watch reassuringly heavy for it's size. The calitrava styling will (I think) not age with time.
Clasp / Strap
http://designmjc.com/media/picts/wat...l_07_small.jpg
Very comfortable - and I find the clasp closes firmly - and can be manipulated for perfect fit, the clasp is 18c gold also - so complements the case perfectly. It came with a brown alligator padded strap but the AD also threw in a black alligator strap that sets off the moon disk very nicely and makes for a more formal look.
Movement
http://designmjc.com/media/picts/wat...y_01_small.jpg
The glory of this watch and a fascination. This is a geneva seal hallmark movement - see above pic, just by the rotor. The 21K gold rotor has the Patek emblem. This movement - as said - winds effortlessly and I have found it very accurate. It is recommended to power up to 1/2 full power then let wrist movement finish winding - if it does run down. I tend to leave mine on a winder anyway. the day, month, date and moon-phase have quick set pushers recessed into the case - to be operated when the time is not between 8pm - 3am while the gears are engaged. The movement can be hacked - by a slight retro-grade pressure on the crown - to set seconds exactly. I just love looking at it!!
Final Thoughts
Just final thoughts - I wear this watch a lot. Sometimes I don't wear it for a while, then I put it back on - and it makes me smile inside. Thanks mum..
refs:
http://designmjc.com/patek - more pics
http://jakicom.crazylime1.co.uk/annu...l_calendar.swf - interesting micro-site
